How To Install Laminate Flooring Transition Pieces

Instructions For Installing Laminate Transitions

The process for installing laminate transitions tin vary depending on the product you purchase. The method in which the transitions are fixed can as well vary.

Most of the transitions I have installed come up with a shaped strip that is fastened to the floor. The transition then snaps into the U-shaped channel.

Different Types of Transitions

Example of one floor being higher than the other when installing laminate transition mold

There are times when the U channel cannot be used, example: The flooring yous are transitioning to is higher than the laminate your installation, as in this photo to the left. In this case the mold will have to be modified and glued.

Installing Laminate Transitions T-Mold on Physical

Nearly of the transition moldings come up with a track that needs to be fixed to the floor first. If your sub floor is, it'southward a lot easier to install the track.

The placement of the molding needs to be considered beforehand. In an opening with a door you want the molding to exist directly under the door when the door is closed. If there is carpet outside the room where the laminate is installed, you desire the rug to stop at the door when information technology is airtight.

Most of the fourth dimension I install the rails afterwards the laminate is installed. I do this to allow me to accept more room when I install the last plank up to the doorway.

In this case I am going to explicate how to install T-mold between laminate and ceramic tile.

Tools Needed

Drill (Hammer drills are faster on concrete)

1/4 inch masonry drill bit

1/four inch dowel, I get them at Dwelling house Depot for about 79 cents

Screw gun or screw driver

Tin can snips to cut the rail Or what ever works for you lot (hack saw)

Pencil and tape measure

Laminate T-mold close up photo

Here is a T-mold with the track. This shows how they will fit together

In this photograph you can run into how the T-mold will fit into the rails. The tracks come in metal and plastic. Detect the expansion betwixt the track and the laminate flooring.

Placement

The very showtime thing I do when installing laminate transitions is to cut a sample of the mold I'm going to install. I apply the sample to make up one's mind exactly where the track will exist placed within the doorway.

I position the sample in the doorway so it is under the door when its closed. I make two marks on the floor where the tab from the T-mold is on each side of the doorway. (the tab is the bottom function of the T-mold that fastens into the track)

When I install the T-mold betwixt these marks on each side of the doorway I know it will cease upward exactly where I desire it.

Installing the Rail

The tracks normally come with some screws and plastic inserts for installing the tracks. The trouble I have found with the plastic inserts is if you don't drill the pigsty in the exact spot your rail can end up curved. Using dowels will requite you some play to motion the screw around to go along the track straight.

I'm cutting the track to fit in the doorway for the laminate transition mold

Cutting the track to fit the width of the doorway. I like to leave a little infinite on each finish, about i/iv or an inch. At this point if your floor is wood you can screw the runway downwardly now. Use screws that don't have besides big of a caput. If the screw sticks up as well high the mold will not seat down far enough. If yous accept the screws sticking up, you tin can always mold the molds underneath the mold.

I'm marking the holes on the laminate transition track so I know where to drill

Hold the track between the marks fabricated on each side of the doorway and mark with a pencil in the pre-made holes in the rail, one on each side and ii in the middle. I also brand marks on the ceramic tile to help me position the track before I screw it down.

Here I drill 4 holes for the laminate transition track

Next drill the holes with a one/4 inch masonry drill bit where you fabricated the marks on the floor. Drill each other with a petty deeper than the length of the screws. I put a pigsty in each end not too far from the door so the ends won't lift later on the molding is snapped in.

Insert dowel in the hole so the track that holds the laminate molding can be installed

Adjacent insert the dowel into the pigsty and insert it with a hammer and snap information technology off at the bottom. Make sure there is no sticking up in a higher place the concrete. If there is scrap it off with a chisel or screw commuter.

Screw the Track down for the laminate transition